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Inlägg märkta ‘Guide Michelin’

Restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg becomes Restaurant Frantzén – meaning Daniel Lindeberg leaves both the company and the restaurant.

Daniel and Björn goes different directions as good friends, and also sees opportunities for future collaborations.

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Björn Frantzén
For Restaurant Frantzén it is “business as usual” and I look forward to 2013 with further developments. Quality is my absolute focus and I will do everything possible to strengthen this further. Several exciting new projects are also on the way this year. I eagerly look forward to following what Daniel does in the future and whatever he does, I am convinced that it will be a success. He is an extremely talented chef, and I support him in his choice.

Daniel Lindeberg
It has been five absolutely amazing years. But in the immediate future I want to put all the focus on finding a small bakery in Nacka, with the ambition to open sometimes around the end of 2013. I would like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank everyone who has worked, been guests or otherwise been engaged in Frantzen/Lindeberg’s amazing journey. I wish Björn and the team all the luck in the future!

The development towards this new arrangement with Bjorn Frantzen as sole director and restaurateur has been going on for a period of time, and on May 1, 2013, the restaurant alter its name to Restaurant Frantzén.

”We have had enormous fun over the years. We have created this restaurant together and our paths will surely cross again in the future”, says Bjorn Frantzen.

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Restaurant Frantzén

Lilla Nygatan 21
111 28 Stockholm
Sweden

Map

 

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I want to share with you some pictures from my dinner at Frantzén/Lindeberg last week.

There is a few things I want to highlight from this dinner (as commented on below), otherwise I will let my friend, foodie colleague and dining companion Arve – also known as Starvefood – do the talking.

Check out his blog for updates!

We started off at Gaston Wine Bar (”the place to be” in Stockholm  right now if you like great wines, great atmosphere and meeting with great people) with champagne and oysters topped with caviar, pickled cucumber and beurre blanc sauce. Simply, a great way to start the evening before moving around the corner to Frantzén/Lindeberg.

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Velouté of fried yellow onions, almond and liquorice – this is a dish I have had here before, and if you ever get to try this you will learn one hell of a lesson about how simple ingredients can be turned into something extraordinary. It is absolutely divine.

Monkfish, cockscomb, matsutake, fermented beans – I can’t remember last time I had a dish of such wonderful textures. The monkfish being dense and very similar to lobster tail meat in texture, the gelatinous and soft cockscomb and the firm yet chewy matsutake mushroom. Some hazelnuts added crisp and made the textural balance complete. Amazing.

Beetroot with 100-year old balsamic vinegar, blackberry, frozen black currant and liquorice - I have had some challenging desserts here over the years, and some wonderful ones too (like the chanterelle ice cream with pickled chanterelles and apricots). Last week I had this incredible dessert with flavours in exquisite harmony, with the liquorice entering the palate bitter to finish sweet in taste while the other flavours, somehow, worked the other way around. Elegant and intelligent – it will stay in my mind forever.

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Presentation of live-langoustines

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”Finger food”

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Oyster ”45 min”

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Langoustine Tartar • dried White Sturgeon Caviar

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”Onion Soup”

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Presentation of Suckling Pig

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Lamb Tartar

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Satio Tempestas

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Scallop

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Monkfish • Cockscomb • Matsutake • Fermented Beans

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Carrot • Grapefruit • Pink Pepper

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Cabbage Consomme • Truffle

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Cabbage • Truffle • Suckling Pig

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Shot of Cabbage & Truffle

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100 year old Balsamic Vinegar • Red Beet • Blackberry • frozen Blackcurrant

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Lemongrass • Mint

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Chef Sommelier Nicklas Löfgren

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Closed circle

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Chef Björn Frantzén

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More detailed descriptions of the dishes can be found on my Flickr-account!

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Frantzén/Lindeberg

Address: Lilla Nygatan 21, 111 28 Stockholm, Sweden
Telephone: +46 (8) 20 85 80

Map

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Related posts

Frantzén/Lindeberg – 16th August 2012

Frantzén/Lindeberg – 14th July 2012

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The 2013 edition of the Guide Michelin Main Cities of Europe 2013 has added new restaurants to its rankings of the best places to eat.

Sadly, there are no new 3-starred establishments in Europe.

Congratulations to Ekstedt and Gastrologik in Stockholm, as well as Sjömagasinet in Gothenburg, who was awarded their first Michelin star earlier this morning.

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Chef Niklas Ekstedt at Ekstedt in Stockholm

Read the full press release and find all the starred establishments here.

New 3-star restaurants (0)

New 2-star restaurants (9)

Denmark COPENHAGEN Geranium
Germany BERLIN Tim Raue
Germany HAMBURG Süllberg – Seven Seas
Germany FRANKFURT ON MAIN Villa Merton
Netherlands AMSTERDAM &samhoud places
Netherlands AMSTERDAM Aan de Poel
Spain BARCELONA Enoteca
Spain BARCELONA Moments
United Kingdom LONDON Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library)

New 1-star restaurants (50)
Austria VIENNA Dom Beisl
Belgium BRUSSELS Va Doux Vent
Denmark COPENHAGEN Kadeau
France LYONS L’Effervescence
France PARIS Le Sergent Recruteur
France PARIS Itinéraires
France PARIS L’Instant d’Or
France PARIS Il Carpaccio
France PARIS La Cuisine
France PARIS 114, Faubourg
France PARIS La Dame de Pic
France STRASBOURG Gavroche
France TOULOUSE En Marge
Germany COLOGNE La poêle d’or
Germany FRANKFURT ON MAIN Weinsinn
Germany FRANKFURT ON MAIN Lafleur
Germany HAMBURG gourfleets
Germany HAMBURG SE7EN OCEANS
Germany STUTTGART YOSH
Germany STUTTGART Schlossgarten Gourmetrestaurant Bernhard Diers
Germany STUTTGART 5
Greece ATHENS Hytra
Ireland DUBLIN Locks Brasserie
Italy MILAN Vun
Italy ROME La Terrazza
Italy ROME Pipero al Rex
Italy ROME Metamorfosi
Italy TURIN Magorabin
Italy TURIN Vo
Netherlands AMSTERDAM Bord’Eau
Netherlands THE HAGUE HanTing Cuisine
Poland WARSAW Atelier Amaro
Portugal LISBON Belcanto
Spain BARCELONA Lluerna
Spain BARCELONA Koy Shunka
Spain BARCELONA Nectari
Spain BARCELONA Dos Palillos
Spain VALENCIA Ricard Camarena
Sweden, STOCKHOLM, Gastrologik
Sweden, STOCKHOLM, Ekstedt
Sweden, GOTHENBURG, Sjömagasinet
United Kingdom LONDON Alyn Williams at the Westbury
United Kingdom LONDON St John
United Kingdom LONDON Dabbous
United Kingdom LONDON Trishna
United Kingdom LONDON Launceston Place
United Kingdom LONDON Tom Aikens
United Kingdom LONDON St John
United Kingdom LONDON Medlar

Deletion of stars (26)

From 2 to 1
France PARIS Bigarrade
Italy MILAN Trussardi alla Scala

From 2 to 0

Switzerland ZURICH Mesa

From 1 to 0
Germany BERLIN Die Quadriga

Germany BERN Wein & Sein
Germany FRANKFURT ON MAIN Silk
Germany HAMBURG Sgroi
Germany HAMBURG Prinz Frederik
Germany MUNICH Terrine
Germany STUTTGART Breitenbach
Germany STUTTGART Zirbelstube
Austria SALZBURG Riedenburg
Denmark COPENHAGEN Herman
Spain BARCELONA Evo
Spain VALENCIA Arrop
Spain VALENCIA Ca’Sento
Spain VIENNA Novelli
France PARIS Vin sur Vin
France TOULOUSE En Marge
United Kingdom LONDON Rhodes W1 (Restaurant)
United Kingdom LONDON Zafferano
United Kingdom LONDON Gauthier – Soho
Norway OSLO Oscarsgate
Netherlands THE HAGUE Paul van Waarden
Portugal LISBON Tavares
Switzerland GENEVA Buffet de la Gare des Eaux-Vive

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Sweden´s leading restaurant guide White Guide announced the best restaurants in Sweden during a gala in Stockholm yesterday.

Here are some of the winners.

Best Restaurant
Esperanto, Stockholm (Chef Sayan Isaksson)

Best Dining Experience
Daniel Berlin Krog, Skåne Tranås (Chef Daniel Berlin)

Best Service
Esperanto, Stockholm

Best Wine Experience
19 Glas, Stockholm

”Worth a trip”
Krakas Krog, Katthammarsvik

The Best Restaurants in Sweden 2013

1. Esperanto, Stockholm

2. Frantzén/Lindeberg, Stockholm

3. Fäviken Magasinet, Järpen
Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen, Stockholm

5. Daniel Berlin Krog, Skåne Tranås
Gastrologik, Stockholm

7. Operakällaren, Stockholm

8. F12 Restaurant, Stockholm

9. Kock & Vin, Göteborg

10. Lux Stockholm, Stockholm

11. Hotell Borgholm, Borgholm

12. Gastro, Helsingborg

13. PM & Vänner, Växjö

14. Ekstedt, Stockholm
Thörnströms Kök, Göteborg

The complete list of winners can be found here.

For the seventh year running, White Guide proudly presented the White Guide Global Gastronomy Award. The distinction is given to a creative chef of international renown or other gastronomic personality, who is still active and who has become an example and inspiration within contemporary gastronomy.

White Guide Global Gastronomy Award winner 2013: Gastón Acurio, Astrid y Gastón and La Mar, Lima, Peru

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Chef Gastón Acurio

“For having developed a rich and forward-looking local gastronomy – la Cocina Novoandina – which obtains traditional and new ingredients from the depths of the Pacific, the heights of the Andes, and the jungles of the Amazon, with a potential to solve many of our health and food provision issues, as well as for his great involvement in the catering training of  poor South American youngsters.”

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Whether you are a ‘foodie’ or not, the White Guide is an invaluable guide and point of reference if you are travelling around Sweden and want to sample the best food the country has to offer. Luckily and democratically, the White Guide gives as much weight to the restaurants in Sweden’s regions and provinces as it does the restaurants of the major cities and towns.

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For the third consecutive year, Rene Redzepi´s Noma in Copenhagen was voted the best restaurant in the world at the Restaurant Magazine’s annual S. Pellegrino “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” awards.

Will Noma make it a fourth time? I very much hope so. Hopefully a fifth time as well, if the restaurant does not close its doors before then.

Having the world’s best restaurant in one of our neighbouring countries, in this small part of the world, allows the spotlight to shine even on us. Sweden. Foodies, journalists and other gastrophiles don’t travel to Scandinavia to experience Noma only; perhaps they want to meet with the next Rene Redzepi at his restaurant in Österlen, to experience the mind of Björn Frantzén in the open kitchen counter at Frantzén/Lindeberg in Stockholm, or why not spend a day at Fäviken Magasinet, tasting the Nordic cuisine in its most extreme, challenging and fun way without using molecular cooking or water baths. Perhaps they also make a stop at the much acclaimed Maaemo in Oslo, or with Chez Dominique in Helsinki?

I don’t know, but being a foodie myself I love the attention given to some of the restaurants in Sweden over the last couple of years. Thank you, Rene. Thank you for placing the Nordic countries on the global map of gastronomy.

For me 2012 has been yet another incredible year with the blog. In fact, En Foodie has introduced me to worlds I never would have been able to experience otherwise. I have met with some of the most amazing, passionate and exciting people in the restaurant business. I have been invited to their table, asked to write for their magazine, even allowed to cook in their kitchen. You have taught me, challenged me and asked for my opinion. I have loved and I love every second of it.

In 2013 I look forward to becoming a dad, and then I guess we take it from there? Still, I can’t stop thinking about some of the interesting projects going on this year. Will we turn our ideas into reality?

Below I want to share with you my favourite meals of 2012. Enjoy.

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# 10       Osteria Francescana, Modena (Chef Massio Bottura)

The culinary superstar Massimo Bottura is taking the Italian cuisine to the next level, describing his food as a reinvention of the flavours of his youth interpreted through the avant-garde. Yes, this is one of those restaurants where you have to let go of everything else and be open-minded about the experience to come. This was my second visit to Osteria Francescana and with Chef Bottura in the house, compared to my first visit, it was nothing but a great evening.

christina puglisi

# 9          Relæ, Copenhagen (Chef Christian Puglisi)

I have to admit that I am a friend of classical tastes and strong flavours. Still, I have to accept the fact that my evening at Restaurant Relæ was nothing but wonderful. It was as challenging and frustrating as I had expected on beforehand, but what to expect from a Sicilian-born chef with at background from Noma and El Bulli that decided to open his restaurant(s) on Jægersborggade, the coolest street in the super-hyped culinary city of Copenhagen? I doubt one can find many restaurants in this part of the world, if none, being as simple yet creative and innovative as Relæ.

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# 8          L’Ami Jean, Paris (Chef Stephane Jego)

Here everyone is eating too much, drinking too much and laughing out loud while Chef Jego is yelling at waiters and chefs, as well as guests, from his open kitchen. But L´Ami Jean is not only about the atmosphere. The food is seriously good and top quality ingredients are used. I was here a couple of times during my visit to Paris last spring and had everything from beautiful scallops, white pudding, a stunning cod cooked a la plancha to perfection and a fillet of veal which has not yet been surpassed by any other. Not to mention the rice pudding with candied nuts and caramel sauce. Wow.

le louis xv

# 7          Le Louis XV, Monte-Carlo (Chef Frank Cerutti)

Franck Cerutti, a long-time second to Alain Ducasse at the Le Louis XV in Monte-Carlo, puts all his energy into flavour. I had the opportunity to come back to Monte-Carlo this summer to try Franck Ceruttis food again and some of the dishes I have had here, not all of them, has to be counted as spectacular. The food here is simple and straightforward, allowing the ingredients to shine. Some might even find the food to simple but for me it has become one of the few restaurants that educate me in terms of top quality ingredients and flavours.

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# 6          Hedone, London (Chef Mikael Jönsson)

Without a doubt I have to count Mikael Jönsson as one of the most exciting profiles I have ever met when seeking dining experiences all over the world. The former lawyer and food blogger is obsessed about trying to find the best ingredients this planet has to offer, and the dining experience at his Hedone, in the unfashionable London suburb Chiswick, is truly spectacular. I came back last summer to spend five hours in the open kitchen counter and perhaps I had too much food, but the few times I have the chance to come here I am prepared to try whatever Jönsson serves to me.

fäviken

# 5          Fäviken Magasinet, Järpen (Chef Magnus Nilsson)

For Chef Magnus Nilsson it’s all about rektún mat (real food). In Järpen, located 390 miles north of Stockholm in an eighteenth-century granary, he runs a different restaurant with a kitchen unlike most others, where the Nordic cuisine is in its most extreme, challenging and fun way without using molecular cooking or water baths. Here you dont only eat a spectacular dinner, the whole picture that Fäviken offers is unique and absolutely amazing.

mirazur

# 4          Mirazur, Menton (Chef Mauro Colagreco)

This summer I have had two meals at Mirazur. Both times I have been amazed not only by the restaurants beautiful location 100 metres away from the French-Italian border, but also by Mauro Colagrecos impressive skills of emphasizing and intensifying flavours in relatively simple ingredients. His food is creative, folding in the best of Mediterranean ingredients. I cant stop thinking of Mauro´s salade d´haricots; any chef who can make a salad this interesting will get my full attention. And be sure I will come back.

daniel berlin krog

# 3          Daniel Berlin Krog, Skåne-Tranås (Chef Daniel Berlin)

A new year and a new season is approaching for Daniel Berlin, his family and restaurant in the small city called Skåne-Tranås in south Sweden. Perhaps with higher expectations than ever before. In Sweden he is mentioned as one of the best chefs and internationally, Daniel Berlin Krog has been named to replace Noma as the world’s best restaurant. I am looking forward to come back to a chef that can turn simple ingredients into some extraordinary (his cauliflower, oats and dill from 2011 is still one of the best dishes I have ever had) and to meet with all the lovely people working here, in this very beautiful part of Sweden. And I will most probably congratulate Chef Berlin again having entered the 50-best list of 2013, when he drive me back to the hotel after yet another beautiful meal at his restaurant.

le calandre

# 2          Le Calandre, Rubano (Chef Massimiliano Alajmo)

Le Calandre is located in the not-so-charming town of Rubano about four miles from Padua in northern Italy. This town consists of nothing except a busy roadway lined with shopping malls and car dealers, and one of the world’s best restaurants. My meal at this restaurants was one of few meals I have ever had close to absolute perfection. After some of the dishes I was almost in the state of shock. Yes, it was that good. Massimiliano Alajmos dishes mostly contains of just a few elements but each of them shine and complement each other. The dishes were all beautiful and elegant, not to mention the flavours that were incredible good and intense throughout the whole meal. A divine experience.

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# 1          Frantzén/Lindeberg, Stockholm (Chef Björn Frantzén)

This restaurant has hooked me in every possible way during the last two years. I am not involved professionally with food or the restaurant industry and I don’t dare to tell anyone how something should taste. I am happy though to tell anyone how something can taste and most of my references to ingredients and flavours come from this small restaurant situated in Stockholm Old Town.

During 2012, three dishes were never enough. I had hundreds of them, and each and every time I left the restaurant I felt humbled and amazed. On February 28th, the premier evening in the open kitchen counter, my world was turned upside down; live langoustines and king crab, 12-day aged halibut, a blood pancake, the coal flamed tartar of reindeer with Iranian caviar, satio tempestas, a scallop in three servings, scorched cod, Vidalia onions, cauliflower “Eton mess”… and much more. It was not for away from a complete gastronomic journey, led by the needs of each ingredient and the freedom of the restaurants creativity. Or perhaps it was the complete gastronomic journey?

The duo of Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg, together with their amazing team, has in a short period of time moved on to offering one of the very top food and restaurant experiences there is to find in the world today. If they continue down this path, the ultimate and highest recognition in the culinary world will soon come. I can’t wait to see how 2013 turn out.

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Frantzén/Lindeberg, the two Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm as well as the 20th best restaurant in the world, presents their interpretation of the English pub: The Flying Elk

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I have always dreamed about cooking English pub food, doing it my way” chef Björn Frantzén says. ”Together with Claes Grännsjö, who is recruited from the one Michelin starred restaurant Kock & Vin in Gothenburg, we want to create a place serving delicious food but where the atmosphere is not that stiffBjörn continues.

Andreaz Norén, who was the opening manager of Milk & Honey in London, will together with Jon Lacotte be the restaurant managers of The Flying Elk.

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Photo: Beatrice Lundborg / http://www.dn.se

The dining section will hold 85 seats and face towards Mälartorget in Stockholm, at the other end of the room there will be a cocktail bar called ”The Corner Club”, and in the basement there will be a beer room. The bar menus will be a bit smaller and the beer and cocktail rooms will offer a ambitious range of drinks. With a separate entrance from Mälartorget there will also be a wine bar called Gaston.

The Flying Elk will open in early 2013.

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Read more about The Flying Elk on their website.

For more news check out the The Flying Elk on Facebook and make sure that you follow Björn Frantzén on his Twitter account.

Read more about Gaston here.

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Related posts:

Frantzén/Lindeberg – Kitchen Upgrade

Frantzén/Lindeberg – 14th July 2012

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I have to admit that I am a friend of classical tastes and strong flavours. Still, I have to accept the fact that my evening at Restaurant Relæ a couple of weeks ago was nothing but wonderful. It was as challenging and frustrating as I had expected on beforehand, but what to expect from a Sicilian-born chef with at background from Noma (sous-chef) and El Bulli (season of 2006) that decided to open his restaurant(s) on Jægersborggade, the coolest street in the super-hyped culinary city of Copenhagen?

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Chef Christian Puglisi

I doubt one can find many restaurants in this part of the world, if none, being as simple yet creative and innovative as Christian Puglisi´s Relæ. The restaurant is as informal and relaxed as the people working here and most of the dishes (and wines) I had this evening were surprisingly good. The plates never consist of more than 3-4 components using very non-luxurious ingredients of high quality. The serving of turnip, chervil and horseradish was one of my favourites this evening, as well as the smoked beets with pickled elderflower.

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Celeriac taco

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Smoked beets and pickled elderflower

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Goat cheese ice cream and parsley

Some of Puglisi’s creations were more daring than delicious but I guess this is a fact that you will have to accept if you come here. For example, a serving of cucumber with fermented cucumber juice did nothing to satisfy my palate.

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Cucumber

My experience with natural wines has not been easy but I was happy to be in the hands of Kim Rossen (partner and co-founder) this evening, whose wine pairings were very clever yet challenging. Like the Commendatore ’11 from Octavin, Jura – absolutely undrinkable on its own, but beautifully paired with a dish of carrots, beef and söl.

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Cour-Cheverny ’10 – Oliver Lemasson, Touraine

Make sure you get a seat in the open kitchen counter, come here with an open mind, and hopefully you will experience an evening as wonderful as mine.

And by the way, make sure that you also visit Manfreds & Vin across the street from Relæ. I would love to have a place like this in Stockholm.

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Restaurant Relæ

Adress: Jægersborggade 41, DK-2200 Copenhagen N

Phone: (+45) 3696 6609

Map

More photos from my evening at Restaurant Relæ can be found here!

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Back in 2002, just before he turned 30, Massimiliano Alajmo became the youngest chef ever to receive three Michelin stars. Although he trained with legendary chefs such as Marc Veyrat and Michel Guérard he credits his mother, Rita, as the big source of inspiration. Rita comes from four generations of restaurateurs and she won Le Calandre´s first Michelin star in 1992. Two years later she handed over the restaurant to her two sons; Massimiliano who cooks and Raffaele who is in charge of the dining room and wine list.

Le Calandre is located in the not-so-charming town of Rubano about four miles from Padua in northern Italy. This town consists of nothing except a busy roadway lined with shopping malls and car dealers, and one of the world’s best restaurants.

My meal at this restaurants was one of few meals I have ever had close to absolute perfection. After some of the dishes I was almost in the state of shock. Yes, it was that good. Massimilianos dishes mostly contains of just a few elements but each of them shine and complement each other. The dishes were all beautiful and elegant, not to mention the flavours that were incredible good and intense throughout the whole meal.

I have had many memorable meals in three Michelin starred restaurants over the years. Both visits to Le Louis XV of course, a fantastic dinner at Martin Berasategui in 2010 (the same restaurant was nothing but terrible in 2011 by the way), El Celler de Can Roca has been brilliant twice (2010/2011) and the meal at The Fat Duck last year was close to perfection. But in each and every one of them there has been something I didn’t like, something that were not up to my personal taste.

This was not the case at Le Calandre.

There are several tasting menus as well as an á la carte menu to choose from and I decided to go for the Grand Classics: Le Calendre´s historical dishes.

To start we had a cornetto of Parmesan cheese and a gougére which was feather light with a wonderful soft and delicate texture and had plenty of cheese flavour.

Next to arrive was a trio of snacks that started to indicate where we were going this evening. There was a black rice tartelette with lobster cream in the bottom and some raw roughly chopped langoustine on top. The langoustine had probably been killed moments before service as it had a wonderful deep and sweet flavour, which worked great with the mild and nutty flavour from the crispy tartelette. The salt cod brandade (rolled in crispy polenta) was smooth, silky and very flavourful. The “mini burger” was made of chickpeas and packed full of nutty chickpea flavour, balanced to perfection with some sharp mustard dressing.

Buffalo mozzarella with pan-fried tilapia was next. The mozzarella was shaped as tagliatelle and had a soft texture with a mild, slightly sweet/sour, but distinct milk flavour. The fish was moist and delicate and had a slightly sweet flavour and absorbed the black pepper, capers and basil in a beautiful way while it helped the mozzarella to release unexpected flavours.

Then we had tomatoes, eggplant, bread and olive oil in a reckless serving. This was perhaps one of the simplest dishes this year, only relying on the quality of the tomatoes. Still, each of the components on the plate shined and complemented each other; the tomatoes as sauce and tartar had a tomato flavour that is hard to describe, the quality can be equated with the tomatoes I had at Le Louis XV earlier this summer or even the tomatoes Grant Achatz had in house back in 2010. The eggplant was a great addition as its mild and sweet flavour enhanced the sweet flavour of the tomatoes even more while some slices of red onions added nice sharpness to the dish, as with the olive oil, being grassy, a little bitter and pungent in taste. The thin and crisp pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) added texture.

Next dish, the cuttlefish cappuccino, was a masterpiece in a beautiful vertical black and white presentation. Small cubes of high quality cuttlefish had been cooked slowly with squid ink and vegetable broth until tender and on top were potato cream with excellent potato flavour, a small hint of soy sauce and a stunning velvety creaminess. It was garnished with a few drops of the cuttlesfish cooking juice, extra virgin olive oil and chives. Yet again a very simple dish that completely blow me away. What a delightful thing to eat, definitely as memorable as Mikael Jönsson cuttlefish dish.

Not to mention the crispy ricotta and buffalo mozzarella cannelloni with tomato sauce. Refined, precise and playful food at its best. Phyllo pastry had been stuffed with ricotta cream, cubes of mozzarella and basil pesto and then baked in the oven. The flavour of the creamy cheese filling was stunning with the light, crisp and melting cannelloni. And again the flavour of the tomatoes is hard to describe. To scoop up the tomato sauce with the cannelloni rolls was nothing but a dream come true.

The risotto with saffron and liquorice root powder is the best risotto I have ever had, with the risotto of Alain Ducasse in mind. This risotto was perfectly creamy, firm and packed full of flavour yet being balanced. The flavours were in exquisite harmony with the saffron entering the palate sweet to finish bitter in taste, the liquorice working the other way around. Beautiful, elegant and intelligent.

Hand chopped Fassone beef from Piedmont was served on a piece of bark and to be eaten with ones fingers with whole wheat bread and a truffle egg sauce. Nothing beats the excitement when you get a dish like this. The beef had only been mixed with extra virgin olive oil and white truffle paste and had a dazzling flavour with a velvety texture and was lovely to dip in the rich truffle mayonnaise.

Next was roast suckling pig with mustard sauce and coffee powder. The Piemontese pig was first lightly smoked and then slowly cooked for 48 hours before the skin was fried in a pan to crisp. Again this was nothing but brilliant with the tender, melting, flavourful and sweet meat contrasted by the bitter tasting chicory and coffee and the spicy mustard sauce. This was one of the best servings of pig I have ever had.

To cleanse the palate I had a sorbet of black currant and some small “nibbles” of apple with cinnamon and mango with mint.

The one and only dessert served was a mille-feuille where the puff pastry was prepared with olive oil instead of butter and served with apricot and vanilla puree and apricot jam made of five different varieties of apricot. This was crunchy and sweet yet light and tangy and had an incredible concentrated flavour of apricot. Here Massimilano Alajmo convinced me even more when it comes to desserts. Yes, I want them simple, clean and packed full of flavour. Like this one. No fuss needed.

Le Calandre is your must visit.

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Le Calandre

Address: Via Liguria, 1  35030 Sarmeola Sarmeola di Rubano, Padova, Italy

Telephone: +39 049 635200

Map

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Massimiliano Alajmo’s Restaurants

Le Calandre
Massimiliano Alajmo and his brother Raffaeles three Michelin star flagship restaurant

La Montecchia
The Alajmo familys one Michelin star restaurant serving traditional dishes

In.Gredienti
A small deli and Alajmo´s flavour labratory

Il Calandrino
A stylish restaurant where you can have simpler food, wines and pastries. We had lunch at Il Calandrino the day after our meal at Le Calandre. This is to recommend.

Ravioli with browned butter, sage and ricotta

"Big Max"

”Big Max”

Pear tarte with gorgonzola ice cream

Petits fours

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Driven to learn and discover Argentinian-born Mauro Colagreco set off to France in the early 2000´s to gain experience in some of the top restaurants.

He learned ”all the secrets” from Bernard Loiseau, developed his own sense of creativity and attention to detail with Alain Passard and studied perfection, refinement and rigour with Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenée in Paris.

In 2006 he took over the Mirazur restaurant in Menton. Very quickly, after just 10 months, he received his first Michelin star and in 2012 he received his second. Earlier this year Mirazur was also voted the 24th best restaurant in the world according to the San Pellegrino classification.

This summer I have had two meals at Mirazur. Both times I have been amazed not only by the restaurants beautiful location 100 metres away from the French-Italian border, but also by Mauro Colagrecos impressive skills of emphasizing and intensifying flavours in relatively simple ingredients. His food is creative, folding in the best of Mediterranean ingredients.

These are notes from my first meal.

The pain du partage had a nice crust and a fluffy interior and was served warm with an olive oil infused with ginger and the well sought after lemon from Menton. I enjoyed this bread very much on both occasions.

The nibbles were simple but good. The beet crisp with variations of beets and goat´s cheese had a wonderful deep flavour and there was a tartar of crisp vegetables and a foie gras cracker.

First dish to arrive consisted of oysters, seaweeds and cucumber. Oysters and cucumber can be a brilliant combination and this surely was a pretty dish, but I didn’t find the oysters as interesting as they can be. I like oysters that have long and complex flavours. Still, this was a light and fresh dish to start with.

Cannelloni de tourteaux was a dish of crab, watermelon, meringue, avocado mousse and different flowers and herbs. The cannelloni was made using watermelon instead of pasta showing some of the great technique Colagreco has figured out. Inside were soft, delicate and sweet crab meat and the meringue added texture to the dish and enhanced the crab’s sweet flavour. The avocado mousse was lovely and all the flavours together well controlled.

I loved the salade d´haricots. This was haricots at its best, dressed in a little pistachio and lemon oil, with pieces of incredibly sweet and juicy white peach.  Some red onion shavings and rockets leafs added a nice sharpness to the dish. Any chef who can make a salad this interesting will get my full attention.

Another great dish was the clams with haricots, radish and clam juice. The juice was very carefully seasoned with liquorice which worked brilliantly with this dish; the sweet and crispy haricots, high quality clams with a beautiful salty taste and a soft, chewy texture and the light yet very flavourful clam juice.  I had a Meursault wine with this dish and its modest tones of anise made this an outstanding food and wine pairing.

The languste came fresh out of the ocean the same morning and was killed moments before service. The quality was, of course, amazing. The meat was cooked to perfection and had a beautiful texture and a delicate, sweet taste. This was accompanied by caramelized onions and white beans. What a lovely moment with shellfish.

Next was brill, a nice creamy-white piece with a soft yet firm texture and a quite sweet taste. The peppery broth and chickpeas worked very well with the fish, being slightly bitter on taste with the right amount of acidity to lift and balance the sweetness.

Poitrine de porc was of superb quality and perhaps some of the best pork I have ever tasted. I have had some wonderful pork at Daniel Berlin Krog in Skåne-Tranås and with the Roca brothers in Girona, but Colagrecos pork surpassed them all. This piece of poitrine de porc had a crisp and salty crackling, wonderful fat and a compact yet tender meat with an incredible pork flavour. The sweet and sour fruits worked nice with the pork; still I could have enjoyed it on its own.

The first dessert to arrive was a carpaccio of figs with anise sorbet. This was a beautiful presentation and the figs were incredibly sweet. Simple, delicious and very satisfying – just as desserts should be.

Next was cannelloni de coriandre, or a reconstructed apple cake. I can’t remember I have ever tasted coriander with apples but it worked very well.

Some cannelés de Bordeaux, lemon macarons and chocolate was served with the coffee.

***

As mentioned above I am very impressed with what Mauro Colagreco is doing at Mirazur. This has to be counted as one of the top tables on the French Riviera and is well worth a detour.

I am very curious to come back here during another season to find out what he can create then.

***

Mirazur
Address: Avenue Aristide Briand, 30, Menton 06500,  France
Telephone: 04 92 41 86 86

Map

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Pictures from my both visits at Mirazur can be found here

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The 2013 edition of the Michelin Guide to the city’s restaurants has added a few names to its rankings of the best places to eat.

New 3-star restaurants (0)

New 2-star restaurants (1)

Atera

New 1-star restaurants (9)

Aquavit
Blanca
Café China
15 East
Hakkasan
Jungsik
Lan Sheng
The NoMad
Torrisi Italian Specialties

Deletion of stars

Kajitsu
Veritas
Laut
Marc Forgione

*****

Read the full press release and find all the starred establishments here.

*****

A big congratulation to Marcus Jernmark and his team at Aquavit who gained their first Michelin star!

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